Body Adjusting

I can't see that doing anything more than wanking up and down on the bar would. I'd also guess that blunted edges would be less likely to leave grooves in the posts. source

I just replaced all the hardware, including the shoes. I was just trying to find an easier way to adjust the shoes than what I have been doing. There is too much resistance in the drivetrain to feel when the shoes are pushing against the rotor. I was going to disconnect the rear driveshaft, but I couldn't get it to budge. Isn't there supposed to be some sort of slip yoke or something? source

Can't your dies be adjusted to get the same results without a shim? It seems you just want to neck size and that would save on case wear if used in the given weapon. If you are using the same fired cases in other weapons you wil need to full length size them. Seperate your cases for each individual weapon and all you need to do is neck size and it will save on case wear. source

Michael, I'll bet that either the rear bulkhead or the firewall are too high, however it could also be the trunk sides. With the body on, take a Sharpie and lay it on its side and run it along the fiberglass behind the rear bulkhead and in front of the firewall and along the trunk sides. There will be little to no ink on the aluminum if the bulkhead and firewall are correctly placed. Take some snips and trim off all aluminum that has ink on it and try again. Repeat the procedure until you get no ink and the side bolts all line up. If you do not have this spacing, the aluminum will push through the bulb seal and ruin it. They used to teach this at build school, don't know if they still do or not. source

They are probably at SGMP right now, now that I think about it. Don't know if you'll hear anything back from them this weekend. source