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On Sun, 3 May 2009 18:52:05 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" <...@snet.net
"cj" <...@newsfe13.iad...
Staining adds color and is absorbed a bit by the wood. Varnishing is a
protective top coat. When you varnish, look for something with UV
inhibitors, such as Min Wax Helmsman poly.
Sanding is good for the spot where nothing is left, but you may want to
strip if in bad shape, such as cracking, checking, peeling. I'd put three
coats of poly varnish on.
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On Mon, 4 May 2009 04:20:31 +0000 (UTC), "SteveBell" <...@newsgroup.invalid
Unless you sand everything to the same level, you'll have some degree
of color variation. After you do your initial sanding pass, wipe the
door down with mineral spirits. It will color the wood just a little,
giving you an idea of how it will look with finish on it. If you like
the look, go ahead and apply the finish. If not, do more sanding.
I recommend a spar varnish or spar polyurethane. "Spar" means the
finish is appropriate for use on a boat's spar, which bends a lot, and
the finish is flexible. A door that gets direct sun changes size during
the day, so a flexible finish is a good thing. Also check for UV
resistance.
There is no permanent finish for exterior wood. They all have to be
redone regularly. The best advice I've gotten, especially for
west-facing doors, is to use a penetrating oil finish instead of a
film-forming finish. With the oils, you just paint on another coat
every six to twelve months. With film finishes, you have to sand or
strip first.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA
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On Sun, 3 May 2009 21:30:58 -0700 (PDT), ransley <...@Yahoo.com
On May 3, 5:12 pm, cj <...@charter.net
Redoing exterior doors is not simple and to much to go into without
seeing it, if its a quality door, I used to spend 50-100 hrs restoring
one door and I did maybe 30 of them. You need to strip it, sand it to
new wood, and use a Marine finish if you want it to last, go to a real
paint store to talk about it and read up, it can be a big job, even
get bids from pros.
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On Mon, 04 May 2009 06:11:45 -0400, LouB <...@invalid.com
Aside from any other comments you might consider getting a sun shielding
film for the glass in the storm door.
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On Sun, 03 May 2009 21:44:58 -0400, "nor...@earthlink.net" <...@earthlink.net
The stain isn't gray - the wood is oxidized. The difference between
stain and varnish - stain is color only, varnish is a clear coating that
protects the wood. For wood doors with that sort of sun exposure, paint
is a lot better - varnish has a sort of a "greenhouse" effect on wood -
paint will keep sun off wood (in the shade, so to speak). If the cracks
are all the way through the wood, you need to apply a flexible caulk or
filler before finishing. Sand off the gray stuff.
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On Sun, 3 May 2009 20:34:36 -0700, "DGDevin" <...@invalid.invalid
And be careful what kind of varnish or clear top coat you put over what kind
of stain. I recently managed to put my foot in the paint can (so to speak)
putting clear polyurethane over oil-based stain--oops. Paint sounds like a
better idea unless for some reason you want some grain showing through.
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On Mon, 4 May 2009 05:46:57 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" <...@snet.net
"DGDevin" <...@invalid.invalid
I've done that hundreds of times, as have tens of thousands of others.
What was the problem?
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On Mon, 4 May 2009 08:47:33 -0700, "DGDevin" <...@invalid.invalid
It turned into a blotchy milky film, when I mentioned it to someone at the
local Woodcraft he said he'd seen similar results before. The humidity
wasn't high, I let the Minwax oil stain dry between applications and let the
last one sit for a couple of days before putting on the Lawrence-McFadden
poly. Of course with my generalized woodworking ignorance there could well
be other factors I'm unaware of (that's usually a safe bet).
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On Mon, 4 May 2009 09:34:41 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <...@att.net
On May 4, 10:47 am, "DGDevin" <...@invalid.invalid
The easiest thing to do after sanding is painting, That way you have
no problems with the various absorption rates for the stain in the
different parts of the old wood.
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On Mon, 4 May 2009 10:23:10 -0700, "DGDevin" <...@invalid.invalid
If I didn't want the inherent beauty of wood visible I'd make stuff out of
plastic. I used a pre-stain too, and the stain looked fine until the poly
went on. Ah well, it's all educational, this one will be a lesson in
*re*-finishing. ;~)
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On Mon, 04 May 2009 13:56:53 -0400, Paul Oman <...@pauloman.com
----------------------------------------
Being in the epoxy business, I've seen the same. Think one needs to let
the stains (oil or water) dry/cure for more than just a few days (say -
guess - 1 or 2 weeks) before topcoating with anything.
paul oman
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On Mon, 4 May 2009 13:36:59 -0700, "DGDevin" <...@invalid.invalid
Thanks, that's useful info. I'm going to sand and start over, and use a gel
urethane stain from the beginning which is what I should have done to start
with. I'll bill myself by the hour on this job, I'll be rich! Errr, wait a
minute....
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On Mon, 4 May 2009 14:31:58 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour <...@worldemail.com
On May 4, 1:56 pm, Paul Oman <...@pauloman.com
I don't think the amine blush you seem to be referring to is the same
as what happened to DGDevin. Amine blush is due to high ambient
humidity while the epoxy is curing. http://www.epoxyproducts.com/blush4u.html
Minwax recommends an eight hour drying time with their normal stain if
it's topcoated with some of their products and 24 hours if their
Polycrylic topcoat is used.
"CLEAR FINISH APPLICATION:
* After a minimum of 8 hours, apply a clear, protective finish
such as Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, Minwax® Helmsman® Spar
Urethane or after 24 hours, apply clear Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective
Finish."
DGDevin didn't give any details about what the conditions were,
temperature, whether the door was removed, if the stain was new or
old, etc. There's usually no problem putting a polyurethane finish
over oil stain, and Minwax wouldn't lowball the drying time by a
factor of ten or more. There's no point in them lowballing the drying
time at all.
Minwax has no problem with water-based clear finishes over oil
stains....their oil stains and their clear finishes. If you start
mixing manufacturers all bets are off and you'll have to make some
test samples. From Minwax's site:
"Q: Where can I use Water Based Polyurethane?
Water Based Polyurethane is ideal for use on all interior bare or
stained wood surfaces sincluding furniture, cabinets, doors and
floors. It can be applied over oil-based stains like Minwax® Wood
Finish or Minwax® Gel Stain. It also can be applied over Minwax® Water-
Based Wood Stain wood tones, provided the stain has dried completely."
And this about their gel stains:
"Do not apply a protective clear finish if the last coat of Minwax®
Gel Stain can be removed with a rag moistened with mineral spirits."
R
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Anonymous Wrote:
On Mon, 04 May 2009 13:56:53 -0400, Paul Oman <...@pauloman.comwrote:
Use a poly stain (all-in-one) finish first, then put a poly spar on
it.
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