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Speedarena Forums: Quick plumbing question
I have the plumbing for a utility sink in my laundry room pre-plumbed but no sink.
I know I have to take the cover off below and install a P-trap but I'm not as brave to solder on some braided lines for the hot/cold water.
What would something like this run to have someone come out and do??
I can install the sink and the P-trap but I don't really want to mess with the water lines.
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Your picture does not work.
You can use shark bite connectors.
No soldering needed, but you will need to cut the copper to get them on.
Buy some copper pipe, some 90's or unions, some flux, a bottle of map gas and the other basics and practice without water connected.
It is real easy, you get the hang of it in no time.
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It's pretty easy
get a small pipe cutter -- something that you can get close to the wall.
You don't want to use a hack saw or sawzall, but I'm guessing that you might be able to use those in a pinch (but I wouldn't).
You'll cut the pipe to the proper length, slip on an escutcheon plate (chrome cover), then you'll slip slip on the valve.
To slip on the valve, put the nut on first, the the brass compression piece, then the valve assembly.
When you tighten the nut to the assembly, the compression piece will squish, and make a water tight connection.
It's the same principle as the compression fittings for oil and air pressure lines for your car gauges.
or here...
http://www.doityourself.com/st...valve
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So are these lines pressurized?
I would imagine I would have to shut off the water outside and then let these pipes drain first right?
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If they are just capped, yes there's probably water and pressure in there.
Not a bad idea to cut the water off whenever you're working on the plumbing anyway.
Cut the water off, open a valve elsewhere (kitchen sink and maybe a lower hose bib outside and let the water drain away.
As mentioned, little torch, pipe cutter and the fittings and you could be in business pretty quick.
If you hired it out, though, it'd be the cost of whatever fittings plus probably one hour of a plumber's time, whatever that is.
Probably $100 or so to have it done, vs.
$50 or less to DIY, even if you have to buy fittings, a tubing cutter, scrap pipe, solder, flux, and a torch.
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I'm going to go to home depot and take a look at stuff.
Maybe they have a class or something I could check out.
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You can use shutoffs that are compression fitting instead of flare.
You only need two wrenches to put them on...
1.
Shut off the water.
Open a drain or sink elsewhere (preferably lower than the shutoffs you're installing).
2.
Cut off the caps using a pipe cutter (about $5 at LowesDepot).
3.
Slide the nut and bushing (left side of pic) over the pipe, and then slide the valve over the end of the pipe.
4.
Grab the valve with one wrench, and tighten the nut with another.
5.
Turn water on, check for leaks, and congratulate yourself on not spending $100+ on a $10 job.
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Don't go through the hassle of even considering sweating on shutoff valves.
Either do the compression thing above or sharkbite/gatorbite male threaded ends with 1/2 FIP - 3/8 O.D.
(or 1/2 O.D.) shutoff valves.
We get a lot of people who but the sweat shutoff valves, only to heat up the valves so much that it destroys the seal, and the shutoffs don't work right anyway.
Plus, if you put on shutoffs that are removable, you can more easily replace them.
I'd go with the "bite" connectors, because then you'll only ever have to worry (at worst) about unscrewing a shutoff and replacing it.
With the new ones though, it's doubtful you'd even have to do that.
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The compression fit valves are the cat's patootie.
I just installed three this past weekend.
A couple of tips - make sure that the copper is clean, so I used some fine sandpaper to scuff all the way around the lines to remove any paint or debris before putting the valves on.
Also, the valves I bought said that you could use a little dab of oil on the threads to make it easier to lock it down.
Only on the threads of the locknut, nowhere else.
Now if only the drain line on the sink would have cooperated that well.
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Ok so which line in the picture is the drain where the p-trap goes??
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The one below the hot and cold supply lines.
Looks to be right under the hot supply.
Should be between 1.5 and 2 inches in diameter.
Not sure what that white cap which looks to be about 4" in diameter at the very bottom is?
Can you take and post a better picture.
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Quote: , originally posted by tjm0852 »
Can you take and post a better picture.
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Quote: , originally posted by Grabbit »
Quote: , originally posted by tjm0852 » Your picture does not work.
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